Why decanting isn’t just for old wines
Many wine lovers and professionals think of decanters being used for red wines only, and older wines at that. Let me set the record straight here. This is nonsense and almost Trumpian in its mistruth.
I very rarely decant really old red wines and when I do it’s to separate the sediment that can leave a grainy unpleasant textural quality in the wine. Most old wines are so fragile to oxygen after their long journey in bottle, they tend to lose definition, precision and perfume quite quickly when exposed to the oxygen that a decanter delivers.
The young and the restless
Where I do like to use a decanter is with fine young white, red and even rosé wines that – when opened - show very little aromatic intensity, and harder and more angular textural qualities on first sip. These fidgety youngsters go straight to the decanter for a good airing.
Decanting exposes wine to oxygen, which leads to a series of reactions that can change the aromatic and textural qualities of the wine greatly (for my more technical piece on the role of oxygen, click here ). For example, sulphur-like aromas fall away, fruit aromas appear from nowhere, tannins soften as they polymerise, carbon dioxide dissipates leading to softer, richer wines styles. Like a priest at a party, decanted young wines become softer, less taut, less serious, and – as a result – a lot more approachable.
Decanting not only enhances the taste of many fine wines, but to wine lovers it can provide a sense of theatre and provide another sensory dimension to the overall drinking experience.
Most decanters are sculptural and rather beautiful to hold and look at, and this is by design. As well as function, a well-formed decanter helps elevate the occasion, in a similar way to a fine wine glass.
When to decant
For fine, age-worthy young wines (white, red, rosé) I tend to decant 3-4 hours before serving. Put whites back in the fridge an hour before serving (with a stopper/ over on the decanter to avoid unwelcome fridge odours). Treat rosés in the same way. For reds, if ambient temperature is acceptable, keep the decanted wine on the bench with a stopper.
How to choose a decanter
We are spoiled for choice on decanters these days and that can make people worry about getting the right one. My opinion (as the owner of many) is to choose one you love. If you intend to use it for its intended purpose more than as a piece of art, then choose one that is easy to store and most importantly easy to clean!